Some patterns, such as the Bird's Nest, call for hackle fibers all the way around the body, which can be a pain. But Tim has a great trick that makes the process ridiculously easy. It's all in how you prepare the feather and then tie it in. Try it out, and your . . .
Here, Tim explains what CDC (cul de canard) is and what distinguishes the two different types. (BTW, cul de canard translates as “duck butt.”) The way the fibers are arranged along the shaft of the feather sets the two apart, which is fascinating to . . .
Figuring out which size bead to use on a particular hook can be the key to a well-proportioned fly, but there are a tons of options. Here, Tim explains how to choose the right kind of bead and how to match the sizes, as well. Once you’ve got this . . .
Here, Tim explains when you want to use a glossy finish–one that stands out from the fly materials, and when you should go with a penetrating fish–one that soaks into the materials. The effects of each are quite different, . . .
Getting the right amount of dubbing on your thread to make a fly body can be tough for some tiers, and the tendency is to use too much dubbing. The result is often a body that’s fatter than you want it to be, or you have to try to get the dubbing off your . . .
Last week, Tim covered UV-cure resins, and here he focuses on the older technology of epoxy resins. As Tim notes, many tiers prefer epoxy resins because they are cheaper and result in an almost indestructible coating. As usual, . . .
If you like to fish barbless--the value of which is a debate for another day--you'll find it's much easier to do a good job mashing the hook barb before you tie the fly. That way, no materials are in the way, and you're not trying to do . . .
Having the right tool in your fly-tying kit will make you a better, faster tier and will make certain jobs considerably easier. A standard hobby knife comes in handy in a variety of ways: it helps you strip old or damaged materials off a perfectly good . . .